WHAT’S New AND Notable IN PHILADELPHIA’s Dining SCENE?
Fall 2004 and Beyond
Innovations in the Kitchen
Wonderful? Weird? Whatever the following dishes are being
called, there’s no denying they’re downright delicious.
Philly’s most famous sandwich has undergone quite the makeover,
courtesy of a trio of ingenious four-star chefs. At the Swann Lounge in
the Four Seasons Philadelphia Hotel, executive chef Martin Hamann adds
foie gras to the traditional steak and cheese combination, and substitutes
crispy salsify twists and sherry vinegar dip for the standard French fries and
ketchup. At the new Barclay Prime, executive chef Todd Mark Miller has
raised the bar even further, smothering Kobe beef in rich Taleggio cheese,
shaved truffles and foie gras — and adding a $100 price tag. Not to be
outdone, Christopher Lee, chef de cuisine at the formerly seafood-only
Striped Bass, has placed braised short ribs, caramelized yellow
onions and porcini, chanterelle and hen of the woods mushrooms between
breadcrumb-crusted folds of skate, calling it a “cheese skate.” (Talk about
clever!)
At the (much) more casual end of the spectrum, the new
Continental Mid-Town offers
desserts such as homemade cotton candy, complete with white cone and plastic
wrap and peanut-butter cookies sandwiching grape ice cream. South Street’s
Maoz is the first state-side outpost of the Dutch falafel fast-foodery,
where folks line up for freshly squeezed carrot juice, French fries and
amazingly affordable fresh pita sandwiches that customers stuff themselves at
the ample buffet. Just down
the way the brand-new Vespa South Street sells vintage Italian scooters
with innovative artisanal gelati.
Starr
of the Show
Prolific restaurateur
Stephen Starr, CEO of Starr Restaurant Organization, has become synonymous
with Philadelphia’s amazingly buoyant, thoroughly thrilling dining scene.
Starr currently operates a whopping 13 restaurants in Philadelphia—and not
just any 13 restaurants, but 13 of the most successful restaurants in town.
Here’s how he made Philadelphia history:
-
Nearly a decade ago (1995),
Starr, a veteran of the music entertainment industry, opened The
Continental in the then just-emerging Old City neighborhood (now one of
the city’s hottest spots for a night on the town). With its olive and
toothpick chandeliers and global tapas menu, this martini-themed upscale diner
took the city by storm.
-
Starr’s next coup, opened
nearly three years later, was the nearby Buddakan, a striking, Asian
fusion haven — still coveted as one of Philadelphia’s hardest-to-get
reservations.
He followed this blockbuster in 1999 with Tangerine, a modern,
French-Moroccan lounge, serving flawless international cuisine.
-
University City’s Pod,
featuring red foam furniture, a conveyor belt sushi bar and private dining
pods with changeable colored lighting, opened in 2000.
-
In 2001, Alma de Cuba
came into fruition with a menu by famed nuevo Latino chef Douglas Rodriguez
and three floors of island elegance.
-
Starr made headlines once
again in 2001 by partnering with Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto for Morimoto,
a thrill-a-minute mecca of modern Japanese fare, accented by an interior by
Karim Rashid, located on an overlooked stretch of Chestnut Street.
-
A year later (2002), he
brought Jones to the street, and with it a stylish 1970s-inspired spot
for comfort food featuring laid-back tunes spun by a live DJ on weekends.
-
Turning the restaurants out
in record pace, Starr then focused his energy on Angelina (2003) to
round out the now stylish block, with an all-toile interior and mouthwatering
northern Italian fare.
-
In 2003, Starr set his
sights on yet another neighborhood — the emergent 13th Street
corridor known as “B3” for Blocks Below Broad (Street) — by installing the
flashy Mexican marvel El Vez, a corner spot complete with low-rider
guacamole carts and very Elvis decor.
-
The ambitious entrepreneur
took over the reins of the posh Striped Bass in 2004, hiring acclaimed
Gotham chef Alfred Portale to design the menu.
-
Another kitchen connection
was made when Starr partnered with Aquavit up-and-comer Marcus Samuelsson for
edgy indoor-outdoor stunner
Washington Square,
the first restaurant to arrive on the emergent city park (and Starr’s second
endeavor in 2004).
-
Still going strong in 2004,
Starr followed Washington Square with a second coming for his first project, a
mega
Continental Mid-Town
for Rittenhouse Square. The restaurant even features the city’s first outdoor,
rooftop deck bar.
-
His most recent creation and
last for 2004 is Barclay Prime, a luxury, boutique steakhouse with a
modern steakhouse menu, where foie gras and champagne are de rigueur.
Up-and-Coming Chefs
Keep your eye
on Lolita chef and co-owner Marcie Turney, creator of marvelously
contemporary Mexican fare in a marvelously contemporary,
bring-your-own-Tequila establishment — where she presides over the city’s only
all-female kitchen. In the fast-developing East Falls neighborhood, audacious
chef Shawn Dolan is making quite a name for himself at modern Verge,
where he dishes up daring hot pots, crepes, steaks and confits.
Django’s
Bryan Sikora continues to win over palates with his fail-proof combination of
cutting-edge rustic cuisine and the coziest of all BYOB atmospheres.
Even well-established chefs
are reinventing themselves. Restaurant renaissance forerunner Georges Perrier
recently reworked his posh Main Line getaway into the very finest of
family-friendly brasseries, renamed as simply, Georges’. Former White
Dog Cafe executive chef Kevin Klause has teamed up with Metropolitan Bakery
owners Wendy Born and James Barrett to open Farmicia, a pharmacy-style
bistro in Old City, committed to using locally raised ingredients in its
dishes. The much-loved Francesco Martorello took the Avenue of the Arts by
storm with his daring Italian-International eatery Bliss. And, back on
the Main Line, Dominique Filoni, the youngest French master chef in the United
States, has recently opened his
next adventure, Bianca Restaurant, featuring contemporary American fare
with a French accent.
The BYOB Boom
A Philadelphia diner’s favorite four letters: BYOB. That’s
short for “bring-your-own-bottle,” a craze that continues to run strong
throughout the region. The BYOB landscape includes cozy mom-and-pop places,
authentic ethnic eateries and four-star caliber finds. Although long
established spots like Old City’s La Locanda del Ghiottone and the
ever-popular Dmitri’s remain prototypes for this simple dining genre,
newcomers are demonstrating delicious staying power. The new-American menu
changes daily at the pint-sized Pumpkin, a contemporary cash-only
bistro on South Street. Passyunk Avenue’s Karina’s creatively combines
Ecuadorian and Italian fare in its simple setting. A Wharton grad and French
Culinary Institute alum Steven Cook has resurrected West Philadelphia’s prim
and proper Marigold Kitchen. Out in the ‘burbs, New American newcomers
include Fayette Street Grill in Conshohocken, Kennett Square’s The
Orchard and Alison at Blue Bell, owned by Striped Bass alum Alison
Barshak.
Restaurant Week: The Price Is Right
Excellent meals at
reasonable prices is the mission of Philadelphia’s popular Restaurant Week.
Twice a year, thousands of Philadelphia diners enjoy three courses for $30 at
80 restaurants. Since its inception in the fall of 2003, the week-long dining
fest has grown in leaps and bounds. Among the acclaimed spots serving the
bargain-priced, prix-fixe dinners: Restaurant Row’s celebrated Susanna Foo
Chinese Cuisine, Old City’s fine-dining soul-foodery Bluezette, hip
neighborhood favorites Twenty Manning and Friday Saturday
Sunday and tried-and-true brasseries like Brasserie Perrier and
La Bohème — in other words, some of the hottest restaurants in town. Those
“in the know” know to reserve early. The next Restaurant Week takes place in
January 2005.
www.centercityphila.org
For more recommendations,
visit the Dining section of gophila.com.
ADDRESS
BOOK
New And Notable In
Philadelphia’s Restaurant Scene
Innovations in the Kitchen
-
Swann Lounge, Four Seasons Hotel
Philadelphia, One Logan Square,
(215) 963-1500,
www.fourseasons.com
-
Barclay Prime,
237 S. 18th Street, (215) 732-7560
-
Striped Bass,
1500 Walnut Street, (215) 732-4444,
www.stripedbassrestaurant.com
-
Continental Mid-Town,
18th & Chestnut Streets, (215) 567-1800
-
Maoz,
248 South Street, (215) 625-3500,
www.maoz.nl
-
Vespa South
Street,
926 South Street, (215) 928-3772,
www.vespaphiladelphia.com
Starr of the Show
-
The Continental,
138 Market Street, (215) 923-6069,
www.continentalmartinibar.com
-
Buddakan,
325 Chestnut Street, (215) 574-9440,
www.buddakan.com
-
Tangerine,
232 Market Street, (215) 627-5116,
www.tangerinerestaurant.com
-
Pod,
3636 Sansom Street, (215) 387-1803,
www.podphiladelphia.com
-
Alma de Cuba,
1623 Walnut Street, (215) 988-1799,
www.almadecubarestaurant.com
-
Morimoto,
723 Chestnut Street, (215) 413-9070,
www.morimotorestaurant.com
-
Jones,
700 Chestnut Street, (215) 223-5663,
www.jones-restaurant.com
-
Angelina,
706 Chestnut Street, (215) 925-6889,
www.angelina-restaurant.com
-
El
Vez, 121 S. 13th Street, (215) 928-9800,
www.elvezrestaurant.com
-
Striped
Bass, 1500 Walnut Street, (215) 732-4444,
www.stripedbassrestaurant.com
-
Washington
Square,
210 West Washington Square, (215) 592-7787,
www.washingtonsquare-restaurant.com
-
Continental Mid-Town,
18th & Chestnut Streets, (215) 567-1800
-
Barclay
Prime,
237 S. 18th Street, (215) 732-7560
Up-and-Coming Chefs
-
Lolita,
106 S. 13th Street, (215) 546-7100
-
Verge,
4101 Kelly Drive, (215) 689-0050
-
Django,
526 S. 4th Street, (215) 922-7151
-
Georges’,
503 W. Lancaster Avenue, Wayne, (610) 964-2588,
www.georgesonthemainline.com
-
Farmicia,
15 S. 3rd Street, (215) 627-6274,
www.farmiciarestaurant.com
-
Bliss,
220-224 S. Broad Street, (215) 731-1100,
www.bliss-restaurant.com
-
Bianca Restaurant,
24 N. Merion Avenue, Bryn Mawr, (610) 529-0999,
www.biancarestaurant.com
BYOBs
-
La Locanda del Ghiottone,
130 N. 3rd
Street, (215)
829-1465
-
Dmitri’s,
3rd & Catharine Streets, (215)
625-0556
-
Pumpkin,
1713 South Street, (215) 545-4448
-
Karina’s,
1520 E. Passyunk Avenue, (215) 218-0455
-
Marigold Kitchen,
45th Street & Larchwood Avenue, (215) 222-3699
-
Fayette Street Grill,
308 Fayette Street, Conshohocken, (610) 567-0366,
www.streetgrille.com
-
The Orchard,
503 Orchard Avenue, Kennett Square, (610) 388-1100
-
Alison at
Blue Bell,
721 Skippack Pike, Blue Bell, (215) 641-2660,
www.alisonatbluebell.com
Restaurant Week
Susanna Foo Chinese Cuisine,
1512
Walnut Street, (215) 545-2666,
www.susannafoo.com
Bluezette,
246 Market Street, (215) 627-3866,
www.bluezette.com
Twenty Manning,
261 S. 20th Street, (215) 731-0900,
www.twentymanning.com
Friday Saturday Sunday,
261 S. 21st Street, (215) 546-4232,
www.frisatsun.com
Brasserie Perrier,
1619 Walnut Street, (215) 568-3000,
www.brasserieperrier.com
La
Bohème,
246 S. 11th
Street, (215) 351-9901
# # #
The Greater Philadelphia
Tourism Marketing Corporation (GPTMC), Philadelphia's regional tourism
marketing agency, is a private, non-profit organization dedicated to building
the region's economy and positive image through tourism and destination
marketing. For more information about travel to Philadelphia, call the new
Independence Visitor Center, located in Independence National Historical Park,
at (800) 537-7676, or visit
www.gophila.com.
For information about
arts and cultural attractions in the region, click on the CultureFiles link.
Note to Editors: For photos of Greater Philadelphia, visit the
photo gallery of
www.gophila.com/pressroom
March 2004
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