|
 |
|
Philadelphia: Off the Beaten Path
|
Ortlieb's Jazzhaus
Photo by G. Widman for GPTMC
|
Location:
Center City Philadelphia: Rittenhouse Square, Old City, Bella Vista and beyond
Transportation:
On foot or in a taxi
Duration:
3 Days
Only have three days and two nights to spend in Philadelphia? No problem. With this action-packed tour of the region’s best eateries, shops, museums and historic spots, you won’t miss a thing.
This weekend itinerary includes visits to classic landmarks such as the Liberty Bell, along with lesser-known attractions, like the Maxfield Parrish-designed Dream Garden mosaic at The Curtis Center, dining at both nationally noted restaurants like Brasserie Perrier and the small bring-your-own-bottle (BYOB) eateries that visitors often miss.
Here’s a look at Philadelphia both on and off the beaten path.
Day One: Friday (History, neighborhood exploration, shopping, art and fine dining)
|
Liberty Bell Center
Photo by R. Kennedy for GPTMC
|
The morning begins with a continental breakfast in Old City. Settle in with a cup of tea at a locally owned bakery such as Petit 4 Pastry Studio, where delicately crafted scones and muffins wait. After eating, the first order of business is checking out Philadelphia’s oldest attractions. Start at the Independence Visitor Center, where you can plan your tours and orient yourself to the city and region. (You’ll need a free, timed ticket to visit Independence Hall, which you can pick up at the Visitor Center.) From there, explore the new Liberty Bell Center, home of the famous cracked icon, and learn about our nation’s most important document through the interactive exhibits at the National Constitution Center.
When you’ve had your fill of Colonial history, explore some of Old City’s more recent developments. The blocks of 2nd and 3rd Streets between Market and Race are brimming with high-end galleries, furniture shops and chic clothing boutiques. The wearable wares range from the tattoo-inspired tee-shirts at Sailor Jerry to the Seven and James brand jeans at Charles Porter to the locally designed duds at Vagabond. Browse the obscure independent jazz, rock and hip-hop releases at A.K.A. Music, ogle the sleek furniture and housewares at Minima and Mode Moderne and admire the art at the Clay Studio and Gallery Joe.
Wind down your shopping escapade with lunch at one of the many restaurants in Old City. Fork’s upscale, creative American dishes are a consistent favorite among Philadelphia diners. Or, go for the international flavor at Konak, serving elegant Turkish cuisine in an airy atmosphere.
After lunch, work your way back toward Walnut Street and head west to The Curtis Center. In the lobby of this former publishing building is one of the city’s hidden art gems: the Dream Garden, a stunning Tiffany glass mosaic based on a painting by Maxfield Parrish. Continue northward to Chinatown, and explore the bustling neighborhood’s famous Friendship Arch, earthenware shops and Sanrio outlets. Next, peruse the Amish specialties at Reading Terminal Market, a 19th-century train terminal packed end to end with stalls and delicacies of all kinds.
The rest of the afternoon belongs to the marvelous Philadelphia Museum of Art, where you can browse the vast permanent collections of modern, Impressionist and ancient art. Stick around for Friday Evenings at the Museum, featuring live jazz music, food and drinks in the Great Stair Hall.
Or you could take the afternoon and visit The Barnes Foundation. Located in Merion, six miles from Center City, the Barnes has one of the finest collections of Impressionist art in the world, with 180 Renoirs, 69 Cezannes, 60 Matisses, 44 Picassos and thousands of other works, including a significant African and Native American collection. You’ll need a reservation, but a visit to the gallery and arboretum that Dr. Barnes built is worth the extra step.
For dinner, head to Rittenhouse Row, home to posh restaurants galore. Between the European-inspired Chinese cuisine at Susanna Foo, the modern French creations at Brasserie Perrier or the award-winning Latin American fare at Pasion!, you really can’t go wrong here. If you’re ready to splurge, you may opt for the fanciest cheesesteak in town, a foie gras and Kobe beef concoction served with a $100 price tag at Stephen Starr’s Barclay Prime. Afterwards, get ready to party into the wee hours at a nearby bar. Dramatic Denim is the place for the designer set, with VIP amenities and excellent house and hip-hop DJs. For a cocktail in a more serene setting, stop by Tria, offering artisanal cheese, specialty beers and wines of all kinds.
Day Two: Saturday (Museums, neighborhood exploration, shopping and performing arts)
|
Mercer Museum
Photo by B. Krist for GPTMC
|
Another heavy-duty day of touring requires a hearty breakfast, like a classic bacon and eggs combo at the equally classic Melrose Diner, where the waitresses wear 1950s-style uniforms.
From there, prepare for a day trip to Bucks County to explore picturesque Doylestown. At the turn of the 20th century, Henry Mercer co-founded the Moravian Pottery and Tile Works Museum, a successful venture that gave him the means to amass an extraordinary collection of American tools, folk art and furnishings—all on view at the Mercer Museum. Nearby and ready for exploring is the castle he designed, now called the Fonthill Museum. Another local attraction is the sunny, accessible James A. Michener Art Museum, which houses a permanent collection of regional art. After all that sightseeing, stop for quick bite at Paganini Pizza and Café.
If you decide to spend the day in town, consider exploring University City. The University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology is a must-see for enthusiasts of sphinxes, mummies and early-culture artifacts. Afterwards, check out the modern paintings, sculptures and videos at the Institute of Contemporary Art (ICA). Take a lunch break at the modern Japanese restaurant Pod, or order a free-range, locally grown meal at the socially conscious White Dog Cafe. From there, explore the other area shops--among them White Dog’s sister store The Black Cat Gift Shop, Smith Bros. Jeans and Urban Outfitters.
Then, head back to Center City for an afternoon stroll around Rittenhouse Square. Literary types will enjoy the Rosenbach Museum and Library, set among the handsome homes of Delancey Street, for its unusual collection of first-edition manuscripts. For more shopping, wander over to Walnut Street, and hit Puma, Diesel, Kiehls, Coach and the many other high-end shops. Or, check out the smaller, locally owned boutiques of Sansom Street--the ladylike fashions at Petulia’s Folly and new and rare finds at the Joseph Fox Book Shop, the city’s oldest independent bookstore.
If you’ve lightened your pockets sufficiently, move east to the Avenue of the Arts, stopping along the way at a vendor for an afternoon snack, Philly style: a soft pretzel with mustard. The lobby is always open at the stunning Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts, an architectural marvel of glass and brick. Stay for one of the Center’s occasional free performances, or just have a drink in the Cadence Lounge. Across the street is Philadelphia International Records, the home of the Philly Sound and a landmark of interest to any soul music enthusiast.
Saturday night is a great time to survey artsy Northern Liberties and its after-dark offerings. The bring-your-own bottle (BYOB) phenomenon is immensely popular in Philadelphia, inspiring an entire culture of small, boutique restaurants with top-notch chefs. Ask your concierge where the nearest liquor store is, then hail a cab to Las Cazuelas for an authentic Mexican meal or Il Cantuccio for homey Italian creations. After dinner, catch live music at Ortlieb’s Jazzhaus, a longtime favorite among jazz fans, or explore neighborhood haunts N. 3rd and Standard Tap.
Day Three: Sunday (Brunch, neighborhood exploration and more shopping)
|
Mummers Museum
Photo by B. Krist for GPTMC
|
Your final day in Philadelphia should begin at the birthplace of Frankie Avalon, Marian Anderson and Rocky: South Philly. Get in line early for the inventive omelets and pancakes at Sabrina’s Cafe in the Italian Market, and while you’re waiting, pick up an authentic cappuccino at Anthony’s Italian Coffee House.
After a leisurely brunch, stop in to the Mummers Museum for an introduction to Philadelphia’s famously feathered string bands. Spend your remaining time and energy on South Street. Among the many record and vintage clothing stores are Benjamin Lovell, which specializes in comfy, stylish footwear; a trendy Vespa South Street retailer; sneaker supermarket Samsun Footwear; and punk rock outfitter Zipperhead. And if you haven’t yet had your cheesesteak, now’s the time to stop by the legendary Jim’s Steaks, and grab one for the road.
|