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Discover Rittenhouse Square
A tour of Center City Philadelphia’s most elegant neighborhood
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Rittenhouse Square at night
Photo by G. Widman for GPTMC
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Location:
Center City Philadelphia
Transportation:
Walking
Duration:
Flexible—anywhere from a few hours to a half or full day and evening
With a gracious urban park as its centerpiece, Rittenhouse Square forms a collection of charming streets lined with stately townhomes, intimate cafes, fine restaurants, and some of the city’s best shopping. Since your tour of the area will be on foot, be sure to wear comfortable shoes, but don't worry about getting tired; there are plenty of inviting places to rest along the way.
One of William Penn's original five squares, Rittenhouse boasts lush plantings and fine statuary that belie its more humble 18th century origins as a pasture for stray cows, pigs, and chickens. During the mid-1800s, the area underwent a transition to become a fashionable downtown address for many city residents. In the early 20th century, famed architect and planner Paul Philippe Cret conceived of the square's current layout. Today, it is a popular gathering place for everyone from students and seniors to couples and families.
Rittenhouse Square
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Rittenhouse Square
Photo by B. Krist fot GPTMC
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Begin at 18th and Walnut Streets, the northeast corner of Rittenhouse Square. Walk through the square itself to fully appreciate its distinctive atmosphere, at once urban and bucolic—and peppered with plenty of wooden benches for taking in the scenery. Exit on the south side to 19th Street, and cross Spruce to Delancey Street, one-half block south. Head west on Delancey to the 2000 block, and admire some of the city’s most architecturally interesting residences, including The Rosenbach Museum and Library, one of Philadelphia's hidden treasures. Step inside this former home of Dr. A.S.W. Rosenbach, a collector of rare books, and his brother, Philip Rosenbach, an art dealer, to experience the life of the well-to-do in the early 20th century. Among the library’s fascinating literary artifacts is James Joyce's manuscript of Ulysses, complete with the author's notes scribbled in the margins!
Return to the square via Locust Street to see a diverse mix of lovely shuttered brownstones and stately apartment buildings. Or, if you're in the mood for more history, one block away on Pine Street is The Civil War Library and Museum, a treasure trove of memorabilia and artifacts from the North-South conflict. Here you'll see belongings from ordinary soldiers and rooms devoted to Generals Ulysses S. Grant and George Gordon Meade, both of whom made their homes in Philadelphia during the war.
When lunchtime rolls around, you may want to enjoy a relaxing picnic right on the square — if the weather cooperates. You can buy delicious sandwiches and goodies (the scones are highly recommended!) from nearby LeBus Bakery and mouth-watering paninis from charming Paninoteca. Alternately, try for a square-side table at either fashionable dining spots: Rouge or Devon.
Now it's time to explore the shopping delights of Rittenhouse Row, which runs along Walnut Street, from 20th Street east to Broad, and throughout the surrounding smaller streets. In this posh district, you'll find everything from national retailers, including Anthropologie, Tiffany & Co., and Jones New York, to local specialty shops such as Joan Shepp and Danielle Scott's Knit Wit. If you’re a book lover, you will enjoy browsing through AIA Bookstore & Design Center and Barnes & Noble, where you can enjoy an afternoon cup of coffee or tea and a snack. Another place with lots of options for snacking and dining—as well as shopping—is the historic Bellevue Hotel (Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue).
In the evening, you may be able to take in a free concert (given three times a week during the school year) at The Curtis Institute of Music, a prestigious conservatory whose alumni include Samuel Barber, Leonard Bernstein, and Anna Moffo. Or perhaps you can enjoy a performance by the Philadelphia Orchestra at the beautiful Kimmel Center for the Performing Arts. If you’d rather see a show, check out what’s playing at the nearby Merriam Theater, or at one of many other theaters in the vicinity.
Before or after your cultural activity of choice, indulge in a nice dinner at one of the many excellent restaurants around Rittenhouse Square. One of these is Brasserie Perrier, located along Walnut Street’s Restaurant Row, featuring a mixture of elegant atmosphere and fine, French cuisine. Another—with the option of outdoor dining near the square—is Tria, a hip new wine and tapas bar. If you’d prefer a more casual dining experience, two good choices are Loie and Monk’s.
Should you decide to take one last stroll through this urban oasis, don’t forget to check out the square’s beautiful fountain if you haven’t spied it already. During the warmer months, you also may catch any number of cultural events that regularly take place on the square. For an intimate nightcap, walk just a few blocks west to a favorite neighborhood restaurant and bar, Friday Saturday Sunday. Climb the stairs to the second-floor Tank Bar, where in the glow of twinkling lights and a large aquarium filled with bright tropical fish, you can recap the day. Should you decide to stay overnight, there are plenty of wonderful hotels to choose from in the area—and even a B&B right on the square. Aptly named Rittenhouse Square Bed & Breakfast, this renovated 1900s Philadelphia carriage house has earned recognition from American Historic Inns, Inc. as one of the “Top Ten Romantic Inns of the Year 2002.”
…You may just find that it’s hard to leave this lovely corner of Philadelphia after only one day!
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