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36 Hours in Philadelphia with Frida Kahlo
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Catch an inspirational live Flamenco performance at Amada
Photo by B. Krist for GPTMC
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Location:
Center City Philadelphia and its great neighborhoods
Transportation:
Walking, cab, or public transit
Duration:
36 Hours (Friday Evening - Sunday Afternoon)
The Frida Kahlo exhibition coming to the Philadelphia Museum of Art February 20 - May 18, 2008 presents the perfect excuse for a quick weekend getaway to Philadelphia.
Not only is Philadelphia the only East Coast stop for the exhibition, but there’s also a special Frida Kahlo Hotel Package that comes with VIP Tickets to the exhibition.
To sweeten the offer even more, we've created this Frida-themed weekend itinerary for you, complete with food, dancing, gardens and art. The itinerary (which is modeled after the always excellent 36 Hours Sunday travel features of the New York Times) is a two-night adventure in the City of Brotherly Love with plenty of authentic Mexican flavor and inspiring Spanish flair.
You can also view a picture slideshow version of the itinerary here.
Friday
6 P.M.
1) Tequilas and Flowers
After checking in to your hotel, it's time for Happy Hour. Proceed directly to Xochitl, (pronounced so-cheet) on Headhouse Square. Set in a neighborhood of stately townhouses and charming cobblestone streets, Xochitl ups the hip factor with an award-winning selection of specialty cocktails, margaritas and tequilas.
Xochitl means "flower" and was the name of an Aztec queen credited with inventing tequila. And since Frida Kahlo so enjoyed tequila, it's only fitting that you kick off your weekend here with a toast to her.
Take a seat at the beautiful bar and order a Corazon de Frida. The drink combines muddled pineapple and cilantro with blanco tequila and lime — a modern twist on tepache, a pre-Hispanic fermented drink that Frida enjoyed often.
Have a snack as well — the fare at Xochitl emphasizes Aztec-influenced Nuevo Mexican cuisine and has garnered rave reviews. However, since dinner is still to come, we recommend you share only a few things, like the outstanding guacamole and the watermelon and scallop ceviche.
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Arroz de Langosta at Amada
Photo courtesy of Amada
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9 P.M.
2). Flamenco and Tapas in Old City
Enjoy the picturesque stroll from Xochitl to Amada, just a few blocks north. Amada, which means “loved one,” is an amazing, authentic Spanish tapas restaurant by renowned chef, Jose Garces. And while the tapas are absolutely to-die-for, you’re in for an extra-special treat — Amada hosts a special Flamenco performance every Friday night at 10 p.m. and its energy is contagious.
So ask for a table near the stage; order one of the restaurant’s famous Almodovar-inspired cocktails — (we recommend the "Bad Education"); indulge in several of the restaurants famed dishes — (there are more than 60 tapas to choose from); and sit back and enjoy the show. The flamenco performance will surely get you in the Latin American spirit of the weekend.
If you are unable to secure a reservation for Amada, an excellent back-up option is Bar Ferdinand in Northern Liberties, where the food (also tapas) is similarly amazing and the atmosphere is simply awesome. Or take advantage of the special Frida-inspired, 4-course, $35 prix fixe menu at Xochitl, by Mexican-born Executive Chef Dioninco Jimenez who drew upon Frida's biography and love of cuisine to create it.
Saturday
9 A.M.
3) Market Stroll
Frida loved to prepare food for others and to enjoy it herself. So start off your Saturday morning with a little food tour: it's a perfect time to stroll through one of Philadelphia’s famous fresh markets to sample the bounty of the region’s exceptional produce, breads, meats, cheeses and other artisan creations.
If the weather is nice, head to South Philadelphia's Italian Market. Belying its name, this long stretch of merchants, vendors and restaurants is now very much a melting pot — or mixing bowl, if you will — of international flavors and culinary influences. The market and the surrounding area brims with Mexican, Vietnamese, Thai and Korean eateries, as well as several wonderful bakeries, seafood and butcher shops and the world’s most famous cheesesteaks.
Another excellent option is the famous Reading Terminal Market, where you'll find Amish merchants, authentic Roast Pork sandwiches and much, much more. And if your hotel is near Rittenhouse Square, a stop at the gustatory marvel that is Di Bruno Bros. is pretty much mandatory.
12 P.M.
4) Lunch with Sabrina and Spencer
For lunch you have a few choices. If you wish to stay with the Mexican theme, you should head to the Mexican Post at 16th and Cherry (the newest of four Post locations), where you can enjoy an alfresco lunch overlooking the Benjamin Franklin Parkway.
However, since Mexican is scheduled for dinner, you may want a little variation. In which case, head to the nearby Fairmount neighborhood and check out Sabrina’s Café and Spencer’s Too or the London Grill.
Named after the owner's two children, Sabrina's Cafe and Spencer's Too is a relative newcomer to the area but has quickly become a local favorite for its wonderful brunch menu, consisting of items like stuffed Challah French Toast, an avocado turkey burger with sweet potato fries, and an oversized chicken salad sandwich on your choice of bread. And on Saturday, both lunch and brunch are served all day.
The London Grill has long been a neighborhood favorite — the London Burger and the Fish and Chips are two classic lunch dishes among several here that the kitchen has perfected.
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"Me and My Parrots," c.1941, Frida Kahlo.
Credit Nickolas Muray Collection, Harry Ransom Center, The University of Texas at Austin.
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2 P.M.
5) Frida and the Philadelphia Museum of Art
Now it’s time for the main event. Head up the famous Art Museum steps and pause for a moment at the top to admire a spectacular view of the Philadelphia Skyline. Then head inside.
The Frida Kahlo exhibition celebrates the painter’s work with an extraordinary collection of paintings and photographs. More than 40 of Kahlo’s works will be on display, including many of her famous self-portraits. Kahlo's work evokes Mexican life, Frida’s romances and her unending search for happiness. (Learn more about the exhibition and related events.)
After seeing the exhibition, there is still an entire Philadelphia Museum of Art to explore. In addition to the distinguished group of paintings, prints, and drawings by Mexican Modernist artists, there is the new exhibition, Fragile Demon: Juan Soriano in Mexico, 1935–1950.
Additional places of interest include the Japanese Tea Garden, the Arms and Armor collection, and the Modern and Contemporary Art collection, where you’ll find works by Picasso, Dali and Warhol.
Also, be sure to visit the newly opened Perelman Building, the first phase of the Museum's exciting expansion. There you’ll find the Museum’s collection of fashion and modern design. Also not to be missed (as if you could): the building’s impressive architecture, including the Art Deco façade.
5 or 6 P.M.
6) From Municipal Water Works to Cocktails
Before heading back to your hotel, walk down the hill to the Water Works Restaurant and Lounge (literally a stone's throw from the Museum's West Entrance) to enjoy a cocktail with another breathtaking view.
The Fairmount Water Works is nestled along the banks of the Schuylkill River, which the Water Works was originally constructed to filter and distribute as the city’s drinking water. When completed in 1822, the Water Works was a modern marvel — Philadelphia was the first U.S. city to have such an advanced and impressive system.
Today, the Water Works Restaurant offers an amazing view of the Philadelphia skyline, Boathouse Row, and the Schuylkill River waterfalls. Sit on the veranda where heat lamps will keep you warm as you take in the scenery and enjoy a delicious cocktail or two, exquisite appetizers and the Water Works’ beautiful riverside garden.
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Margaritas and Gelato
Lolita photo (top) by G. Widman; Capogiro photo courtesy of Capogiro
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9 P.M.
7) Midtown's Exotic Flavors
After a brief respite at your hotel, head to the bustling and vibrant enclave of Midtown Village, anchored by the corner of 13th and Sansom Streets.
Last night, dinner was Spanish tapas; tonight it will be Nuevo Mexican. Option #1 is Lolita, a modern Mexican BYOB with an acclaimed kitchen and a Bring-Your-Own-Tequila policy perfect for the restaurant’s tremendous, house-made Margarita mixes.
Across the street lies option #2, another popular Mexican restaurant, although this one has a bar: El Vez. Opened in 2003 by the famed restaurateur Stephen Starr, El Vez was the catalyst for the neighborhood’s rebirth and continues to enjoy quite a following. The head-turning Mexican fare is exceptional.
If you’re looking for something other than Mexican, we've got you covered — within half a block of El Vez are plenty of non-Latin options, including Raw, Bindi and Vintage. Raw, a popular restaurant and lounge, serves sushi, sake and other Japanese favorites in a sexy space. Bindi is a new modern Indian restaurant opened by the owners of Lolita and, like its older sibling, is BYOB. A few doors down is Vintage, a sophisticated neighborhood wine bar boasting delicious, European-influenced cuisine.
And for dessert — Capogiro is a must-visit. Their authentic Italian gelatos and sorbetos are made by hand on the premises using local ingredients. And the selection of coffee, espresso and cappuccino is superb.
12 A.M.
8) Dancing With the French
Frida may not have loved the time she spent in Paris in 1939 but we're guessing she would love L'Etage, a funky yet sophisticated upstairs lounge slash bar slash cabaret located just off South Street.
On weekends, L'Etage can be quite a scene — the dance floor and surrounding lounge are filled by a trendy crowd insistent on having a great time. And so will you.
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Spring Blooms at Longwood Gardens
Photo courtesy of Longwood Gardens
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Sunday
10 A.M.
9) Flora Abundance
Frida Kahlo loved to garden. Her Mexican home, “Casa Azul,” was surrounded by an amazing botanical display filled with peacocks, monkeys and colorful blooms.
Schedule your trip between March 2-8, 2008 and you'll get to visit the famous Philadelphia Flower Show — one of the world's largest.
If your visit does not coincide with the Flower Show, don't despair. Bartram’s Garden, located in West Philadelphia, is America’s oldest living botanical garden. It's a wonderfully tranquil place to walk, jog or just enjoy the springtime sun.
In Center City, the Azalea Garden at the Art Museum and the Gardens at the Pennsylvania Hospital are both brilliant in spring.
And Longwood Gardens, located in nearby Kennett Square, is celebrated throughout the world for its fountains, chrysanthemum collection and, come springtime, amazing azalea and magnolia displays. With 11,000 different types of plant life covering more than 1,000 acres, it's impossible not to be inspired by Longwood Gardens.
1 P.M.
10) Brunch on the Square
Rittenhouse Square is like Philadelphia's town square — the park itself serves as a meeting place not just for local residents but also for anyone visiting Center City. And the beautiful neighborhood surrounding the Square is somewhat of an anomaly — it's one of those precious few places that manages to be a perennial hit with tourists and visitors, yet also manages to remain especially beloved by Philadelphians.
So before leaving town, we recommend you enjoy one last meal hear: a delicious Sunday brunch on the Square.
And you can't ask for a better brunch than the one at Lacroix, an amazing French restaurant located in the posh Rittenhouse Hotel. The prix fixe brunch here is certain to be one of the best brunch experiences you will ever have.
Other Square-side options are: Rouge to the east; Marathon on the Square to the south; and Loie to the north.
Whichever you choose, after you eat, conclude your visit with a stroll through Rittenhouse Square to experience first hand why Philadelphians love living here so much.
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The Eye's Gallery is a colorful shop specializing in Mexican folk art
Photo by R. Kennedy for GPTMC
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3 p.m.
11) Eclectic Finds on South Street
To cap off an exciting weekend dedicated to Frida Kahlo, head over to South Street to find a veritable treasure trove of Frida memorabilia.
The Eye’s Gallery, located at the popular corner of 4th and South Streets, is a three-story shop devoted to Latin-American furniture, jewelry and knick-knacks. This is definitely the place to go to find all things Frida Kahlo — such as shrines, earrings, postcards, games and paintings (replicas, of course). The staff is funky and friendly, and they're more than happy to share their love of Mexican folk art with you.
And South Street is famous for being colorful and eclectic, rivaling even Frida in those departments. So take a walk around and enjoy one of Philadelphia’s most exciting streets.
The Basics
Transportation
If you're traveling from New York, New England, DC, Baltimore, Harrisburg, etc., Philadelphia is expertly served by Amtrak. And you can get 50% off a companion fare when you use our special discount code V454. Book online at Amtrak.com or call 1-800-USA-RAIL.
Accommodations
To celebrate Frida's visit to Philadelphia, several area hotels are teaming up with the Art Museum to bring you the Frida Kahlo VIP Hotel Package. This great deal gets you accommodations at one of Philadelphia's great hotels, plus two un-timed tickets to the Kahlo exhibition.
The Sofitel is a great choice for the VIP package. Its location a block from Rittenhouse Square is basically unbeatable, close to several of the dining and site-seeing destinations we've mentioned. And there aren't many hotels as luxurious and as friendly as the Sofitel.
Or check out the Marriott Downtown. Along with your un-timed tickets, you will be located a block from the Reading Terminal Market, City Hall and the Avenue of the Arts.
And the Four Seasons, always renowned for its world-class service and luxurious accommodations, puts you right on the Benjamin Franklin Parkway within eyeshot of the Philadelphia Museum of Art.
The Philly Overnight® Hotel Package, perfect for a two-night quick getaway, is another great way to experience the city. The package is available throughout the year and gets you free parking (upwards of a $60 value at most Center City hotels) and an Insider's Guide to Philadelphia full of discounts and special deals.
Click here to check out the package, then pick your favorite hotel for your two-night stay in Philadelphia.
Additional Options for Food and Drink
This itinerary includes some of Philadelphia’s favorite places for tapas, brunch and cocktails — but it’s certainly not everything. Check out our Dining section for more delicious Philadelphia cuisine; and visit Latin Flavor for more of Frida’s favorite foods.
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